Author: KnowlesMalinda

Do Color in the Winter: Harlem Fashion Row Fall/Winter 2013 Collective Fashion Show

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This week I attended Harlem Fashion Row’s sixth annual Fall/Winter Fashion Show at the Apollo Theater in Harlem. Well, it was quite the event with everyone from Nana Meriweather, Tatijiana Shoan, editor-in-chief of As If Magazine, Bevy SmithTyson Beckford and more in attendance. Above looks from designers Chantell Walters and Kimberly Goldson, finalist from Project Runway.

For those that don’t know Harlem Fashion Row is a company that supports emerging African-American designers and perhaps me sometime soon. This was their very first Fall/Winter show and I applaud Brandice Henderson and the designers for their hard work.

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Espion Atelier by Deidre Jefferies

My favorite collection is kind of a toss between the first and the last. The first collection by Deidre Jefferies featured great ready to wear in mostly black, grey or bright yellow. It was funny to see because that’s exactly what I was wearing; a bright yellow dress, black blazer and grey coat. Even though black is New York’s most chic color, I am definitely not afraid of color in the winter.

The last collection by Kimberly Goldson featured some amazing, unique and beautiful pieces. She is a former Project Runway star and said she was inspired by Michelle Obama. Wanted for all of us to “see ourselves in the clothes.” Well, I did Kimberly, and I am leaning towards being most excited about your collection.

The show also featured a menswear line by Sandro Romans with very interesting headwear. One of the models told me that they actually wore a scarf around their head with a hat pinned to the top. Creative, I thought.

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Yours Truly,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

The Cost of Producing a Fashion Show

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New York Fashion Week is almost here and everyone is very busy getting all those last-minute details together to make for a perfect show. And, you know that old Murphy’s Law– what can go wrong will go wrong.

So, I was thinking to myself, just how much does it cost to put on an amazing show? Well, of course it depends on if you are keeping it basic or doing something over the top like Chanel. But let’s get to the bottom line. It’s business and designers are selling clothes and an image. So how much does it really cost?

Well, here’s a list of a few possible costs;

Production and Equipment; 50K to 300K+

Videographer: 3K to 5K per hour

Stylists: 5K to 20K per day

Hair and Makeup Team: 5K to 100K+ per show

Models: unpaid to 200K+ 

Venue: 10K to 50K+

According to the New York Times, the Marc Jacobs show cost $1 million in 2011, or $1750 per second. The breakdown on that; 500 guests, 63 outfits, 45 second model appearance, 22-inch human hair extensions for each model at $180/head, 50 hair stylists, 35 makeup artists and 70 dressers. The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show rang in at about $12 million last year, says Business Insider.

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Last year’s Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2013 Paris show directed by Marc Jacobs featuring models descending from escalators in the Louvre. Burberry literally made it rain/snow at their Fall 2012 London show.

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The smaller fashion brands have done presentations instead of runway shows, spotted their own venues, casted their own models and utilizing the help of volunteers and interns to cut costs. So, given what brands shell out in terms of money, we can all understand why it’s so important who is at your fashion show and where they are sitting.

I can’t wait to see who takes the cake this year in over-the-top fabulousness.

Yours Truly,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Spring forward with new designer arrivals at NORDSTROM.

AS by DF Fall 2013 Fashion Presentation

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So, last week I attended AS by DF Fashion Presentation featuring some new Fall 2013 designs from Denise Focil who is doing a relaunch. She’s done work for J. Lo and others and is mostly based out of Los Angeles but is trying to get her stuff out here to New York. Leather is her thing and I liked some of the leather pieces that she had.

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AStarsFall2013_malindaknowlesDenise wore a dress from her new collection with some great leather striped detail featuring see through fabric. I’ve noticed this seems to definitely be a trend this year.

Her ASTARS Line, a lower price point collection, evidently might be at Intermix stores this Fall. There was a dress that I absolutely adored with very soft fabric and stretchy vegan leather sleeves that will be retailing for about $90. I was impressed.

Tyson Beckford and Melyssa Ford came by to view the collection as well. Good stuff Denise, looking forward to seeing your stuff in New York.

 

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Yours,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Photo Credits: Carly Otness/BFAnyc.com

Copyright: ©BFA

Neiman Marcus and Target Line Flop

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So, everyone and their mother these days since the economy crashed in 2008-2009 has seemingly jumped on the ‘I’m a high-end designer for low-budget stores’ bandwagon. Well, it takes a lot to successfully run a high-end fashion business and one must do what one can to survive and thrive. But, the consensus seems to be that a high-end designer or department store like Neiman Marcus should just stay that way and not try to parlay with your say, Target customers just to make some sales.

Evidently, its wiser to have a Marc by Marc Jacobs line under your umbrella like the Marc Jacobs fashion house as opposed to looking for a permanent collaboration with a lower price point store/brand as it is just not your customer base. Designers jumped on the Neiman Marcus Target collabo and Target customers complained that the prices were much higher than what they were used to paying but not much better quality than all the other products. Prices were slashed almost right away and according to Time Magazine, the entire collection was marked down 70% starting January 1st.

I’m definitely keeping this in mind for my future projects. If you’re a high-end designer, it may pay to just have your own lower price point line under your own brand than to do a collaboration like Neiman Marcus for Target.

Yours Truly,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Wearable Art Inspiration: Proenza Schouler Graffiti Bag

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I’m totally on to this new bag from Proenza Schouler’s PS1 Collection. Take this graffiti covered bag to the streets with some leather pants, sneaker heels and one of those skull shirts and jewelry from Alexander McQueen. Check out some ideas to mix and match in my Funky Street Style collection here.

Yours Truly,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Schiaparelli, Structure and Shoulder Pads, are they here to stay?

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I personally like shoulder pads in women’s clothing. Know they were big in the 1980s, I hardly ever saw my mom walk out to work without them in a fancy suit. They have recently made a come back but, are they here to stay?

I was sitting in textile class talking about how different fabric does different things for women’s wear and shoulder pads came up. We started chatting about if in ten years, we’ll look back and say absolutely not. I know that mohawks and shaving half of your head will definitely be a thing of the 2010’s but shoulder pads, I don’t know.

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Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian designer of the 1930s and 1940s inspired by Surrealists like Dali, is noted to have introduced shoulder pads in women’s clothing. She seemed to be into form and structure like what we are seeing in some of the newer designs today. Like, for instance, this skeleton dress with shoulder pads below.

Check out the detail on the shoulders of this dress worn by Mrs. Reginald Fellowes in 1933. Schiaparelli and Prada were featured and compared at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Met) last year for their spring exhibition.

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Schiaparelli had some great vision for her time. I think there might be periods when the shoulder pad will be more prevalent in fashion than others, like the 1940s and 1980s. But, my prediction is that the shoulder pad is here to stay.

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Yours,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Michelle, Sasha and Malia Obama’s Inauguration Day Fashion

So are we all not excited to see what Michelle Obama, most powerful woman in fashion, will be wearing this weekend?

She recently changed her hairstyle and I love it. And I think we all just can’t wait to see the fashion this weekend!

PicMonkey CollageIn 2009, Michelle Obama wore a lemongrass yellow Isabel Toledo shift dress for the day, and a gorgeous white off-the-shoulder chiffon gown by Jason Wu for the ball. WWD says that more than 20 designers have sent in dress sketches in hopes to be chosen to dress her for the momentous occasion.

I can’t wait to see the looks for her and Sasha and Malia, who are quickly becoming style icons too. Check out a few of the fashion sketches from Chanel, Nanette Lepore, L’Wren Scott, and Monique Lhuillier for Michelle, Sasha and Malia for Inaugural Day below.

 Michelle Obama, Inauguration Dress

Yours,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Porsche Designs’ New Women’s Handbag Line NY Launch Event

Malinda Knowles image This week I attended Porsche Design’s new women’s Handbag Line Event. District Manager Jorge Vegaumana told me that their women’s handbag line is to officially  launching in March in 130 stores worldwide (Miami, Boca Raton, Berlin, France, etc). I generally go for a funkier or more colorful bag line like Proenza Schouler’s but for a conservative day bag, they get my vote. They are sleek, sexy and fun just like the Porsche car line, and their handles adjust so you can wear it on your shoulder or just carry in-hand. Check out some more of the photos below. Everyone was asking about my dress. I’m wearing a vintage Signette dress made by a local New York designer named Aysha Saeed that I got from one of her sample sales.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Harlem’s Fashion Row: CEO Brandice Henderson Talks with June Ambrose

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This Wednesday night I attended Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR) Conversations with June Ambrose event at the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture in Harlem. HFR is a company founded by HFR’s CEO Brandice N. Henderson interviewed June Ambrose on stage and chatted about everything from June’s first styling gig, childhood and how to be professional in an unprofessional environment. I thoroughly enjoyed it and have included a few highlights and tidbits below.

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On June’s first styling job…

Hype (Williams) was like why are you here? She was the director of marketing for Cross Colors. Did product placement and creating marketing plans. She started working on R Kelly’s Down Low music video before MTV was playing black music. I was going to bring a costume design aesthetic to black music. It was about a cinema… that’s where June Ambrose was born

On working with Jay-Z….

I worked with Jazy-Z from inception he is to date my “best friend” if he took a job it was ‘June is doing the job or I’m not doing it.’ It’s different now… what I do has become publicized… there’s so many more of “me” and a lot of “you’re an artist your sister likes fashion your mother likes fashion… you’re going to keep the money in-house”

On clients leaving her…

I don’t even worry about it I just keep on. You know your self-worth you don’t worry about things going away.

On her first job ever at Kentucky Fried Chicken…

I had this job for 2 days… thought I would work at the register and the manager said I need you to go back and clean chicken. He called my mom saying ‘oh she’s spoiled.’  That is just not what I needed to do.

On using social media for branding…

Your social media is an extension of your résumé. You’re cussin. It becomes this reality ratchet moment. You don’t know where you are going to be 5 years from now. I treat my company like a corporate company. I’m taking you around high-profile people. Corporate America did that to me. And I’ve spent a lot of time being wall papered… and I’m the only sober person in the room. Social media is your editorial platform. I am the Anna Wintour of my own… (social media).

On her down moments and biggest challenges in life…

I was raised in the Bronx in a one bedroom apartment. Moved from St. Croix. Older sister is a nurse. My first name is Junemarie. Mom’s thing was get an education get a job. When you see your mom cry for the first time cause you couldn’t pay the rent it makes you say ok get out. I don’t have childhood friends what happened was I decided I was gonna get out and kind of didnt’ look back. My mom would take us downtown… (and I)… fell in love with Manhattan at a very young age.

On if she will return to VH1 for a second season…

June says she felt she had so much more to offer than creating this “drama content” that they needed to produce. Getting into a fight etc. She was afraid of that and basically, will not be returning to VH1 for a second season. “VH1 is not a network known for doing fashion…I just don’t have a space on the network and the content, it’s just not the place for me.” June said, however, that she will be returning to television later in the year for the launch of her footwear line on HSN. Check out the video of June speaking about this below.

 

I truly admire June for her hard work, ethic (i.e. 7:30 AM is sleeping in), and that she is in my opinion, a respectable black woman in fashion. I applaud you June for not doing another season with VH1 or falling in line with their needed “drama content.” You said that one of your biggest fears was not being relevant. Well, June, I think it’s safe to say that if you keep it up, that will never happen.

Yours,

“Fashionably-Late”

Malinda Knowles

Photo Credit: Jessie Adore and Josh Woods